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I have no objection to it being used in the driveshaft (of those models using oil there).
In fairness, I will also note here that one experienced transmission rebuilder, Tom Cutter, my words here, believes synthetic gear oil in your Airhead is not good, leading to unspecified WEAR.
Restating this: One difference is in spin up & spin down time for shifting. I am also concerned that, when colder than approximately 90F (or maybe somewhat more) air temperature; and/or the engine not being used at high output (which produces more heat, that DOES get to the transmission), lubrication is possibly reduced, protection could be decreased, & there are other not-so-nice things.
For example, using 80W145: The oil at any normal operating temperature will ALWAYS be thicker than if the oil was any lighter grade, including 80W90.
I also said that you could use 75W90, 80W90, or 85W90, depending on weather.
In the past I recommended you use ONLY a quality GL5 oil in your Airhead transmission; preferably in grade 80W90 for most conditions.
Airhead shifts similarly except that the shift levers are moved by a flat plate cam. Some information not covered in my own transmission article, below, that you are reading. I have some nitpicking with some of the information, mostly not worth relating here.NOTE ALSO that the thicker oil will have more horsepower losses associated with it ...friction within the moving oil itself too ....besides the various gears, etc., changing shifting characteristics due to different slow-down and speed-up slowing.There is a rating called Viscosity Index (VI or v.i.), which is the RATE of thickness change of the oil with temperature change.If you wish to think about this in a different way, imagine the oil is rated at 80W20000, & THINK about what that means.Thus, at most any temperature you will be riding at, even after a full warm-up, the oil is thicker, a lot thicker.
If you change from a dino to a synthetic, & get some weeping or leaks, change to another type of synthetic, or go back to a dino.